Your New Puppy: Breeder Recommendations and Guidelines

Settling In

It will take your pup at least 7 days to settle in. During this time, spend as much time as possible carefully acclimating your pup to his new home and everything he will be exposed to there, such as other pets, vacuum cleaners, children, car rides, and neighbors. Your pup has had many experiences here, but it is necessary to keep exposing the pup to everything in his new world especially during these early months. Find places where he can visit such as friends and relatives, a pet store, a grooming shop, a dog training facility or parks where other people take their dogs after he has had his rabies shot. We do not recommend doing any traveling outside your backyard onto public grounds that is, until the dog is 4 months old and has fully had his shots and rabies shot has been administered. Then find pet friendly events, such as Animal Shelter fundraisers, or pet store promotions. Find a nursing home that welcomes visitors with pets. If it is an "only" pup, find friends with dogs that can be good and safe playmates. Continue exposing your new puppy to everything that will make up his world especially during the early weeks and always put the health of your pet first. Then continue right through his adult life. Use the Rocal spray on your shoe soles, and if necessary, spray the paws of your pet before re-entering your home.

Always keep your pup safe from other animals that are not good with puppies, watch out for stairs, and never leave a young pup unsupervised with a child. If at any time your pup looks fearful, remove him from the situation and take him where he feels safe. Try again at another time when the pup has not been over stimulated or find a way to present the scary situation in a less frightening way. If the pup shows signs of fear, and makes an attempt to approach, reward him immediately. Never reward fearful behavior with words of encouragement, simply back the pup away or remove him until he feels safe enough to attempt an approach on his own.

Feeding

Feed 4 times a day (beginning with an 8 to 10 week old pup) Once the puppy is 4 to 5 months old (or all adult teeth are in) feed 3 times a day. Start with a ½ cup to one full cup of dry kibble – if he eats it all- feed more. If he leaves some, good. Feed 2 times a day from 6 months on. Your dog should not be considered fat. This can affect his health and his hip joints. You should see a waist line on a grown dog, and see the outline of his ribs. But you should never be able to count the ribs. (This applies to a grown dog only) Be sure to fatten your puppy while he is growing. He will use the food for growth.

We personally, free feed our puppies and some of our adults dry kibble. This means the dry kibble is left out all day for them. They seem to eat only when they are hungry. No one seems to be overweight, or too thin. This method is entirely up to you. All dogs have different needs so the above feeding is only a guideline. Your pup is used to getting raw carrots, apples, squash, broccoli spears ground up and placed on top of the kibble lightly soaked with warm water every morning. This encourages them to eat their first meal. You may use a spoon or two of yogurt or cottage cheese, or egg, scrambled or raw once or twice a day. If you do not wish to add the water or the egg, all he really needs is the Nu Vet vitamin and a vitamin C in addition to the dry kibble.

We are feeding Nutro Natural Choice Large breed puppy- (Lamb and Rice) We soak the kibble in warm water for a few minutes and add our veggies,(apples, carrots, broccoli, squash, bananas) and supplements for the first meal- the rest of the day they have been free fed only the dry kibble (you could do planned feedings of just the dry kibble for the remainder of the feedings) I don’t recommend a crate training puppy to free feed. It makes it too hard to know when they need to eliminate. Remember, it takes 10 minutes to ½ hour after a meal to eliminate. If you wish to change the food after he is 4 to 6 months old, fine. Don’t do anything until then. (the bacteria content is different and they will get very ill) I feed my dogs in crates here. It also eliminates fighting in multiple dog houses as well as food stealing. This way I can monitor who is eating what. (If you plan on feeding kibble in the crate, fine. I do not recommend feeding or giving water inside the crate)

Snacks

I don't do too many snacks- but I recommend carrots, apples, squash, and homemade treats. As a fast food alternative, get some packaged or boxed biscuits or bones - at trader Joes- or look for Mrs. Hubbard’s or Nutro brand Or you can bake your own with brown flour...I may have a recipe if you are interested See the butcher, and have him cut you up some bones with his ban saw. They can be placed in your freezer until your pup needs another. For obedience training, and sit, shake tricks, I use boneless and skinless chicken breast boiled and cut up into small pieces and placed in a zip lock bag in the fridge, as a training treat. Hot dogs, bacon and really yummy pup perionis are all good too. Don’t give the puppy left over’s just yet. Make this transition very similar to what the puppy has had while living with us. When he is 4 months old, you can give him some left- over’s in his bowl after you are finished eating.

The Raw Diet

I am unable at this time to feed this way, although, I highly recommend it. The nutrition page of our web site will explain what all is about for those who are considering it.

Good for pups on top of their food is:

• leafy greens: dandelion, parsley, kale, chicory
• orange/yellow vegetables: carrots, sweet potato, pumpkin (pumpkin is great for diarrhea as well as constipation)
• other vegetables: celery, cucumber, broccoli, cauliflower, green beans, radish
• fruits: banana, apple, oranges, blueberries, peaches
• other stuff: raw eggs, organ meats (*feed some at least once a week), olive oil or flax seed oil, apple cider vinegar (just a little) kelp, Barley.­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­____
• STAY AWAY FROM RAISIONS, GRAPES, ONIONS, GARLIC (this is hard on the kidneys)

Supplements

We believe in Nu-Vet Canine Plus (herbs, and vitamins and supplements) All natural made with human grade ingredients which help to boost the immune system. A must for a puppy or dog on any kind of diet. With Nu-Vet, all you need is one a day- and they love it. This will keep them from many illnesses get and to boost their immune system to prevent ailments of many kinds. They have always on been on this supplement. Even while in the womb. We would like to see your puppy remain on the same diet we have planned for him/her. Remember the key is to make this an easy transition from our house to yours. Please do not change the routine in any way. Every day the pups get one NuVet plus canine (vitamin chewable). Because we believe in the Nu Vet supplement, we have based our extended guarantee on it. I have made it possible for you to get it directly from the manufacturer. It will be sold to you at my cost. Use my wholesale code, as this cannot be found in stores. (They only to sell to breeders and to Veterinarians.) Their # is 800-474-7044 order code: 32892. I encourage anyone who loves their pet including cats, to get on this product. We have seen amazing changes in coat, clarity, eye, allergies, flees (I could go on and on) My dogs are able to enjoy this supplement along with their Nu Joint supplement that we give them everyday, and I plan on doing this for the rest of their lives. Read more about NuVet on our nutrition page.

Also, every day I give one Chewable Acerola C Complex 500 mg available from Vitamin Shoppe (1 morning) with food... An Omega 3 or Flax seed oil is also given on top of the morning meal about once a week. (You can give more, one a day in the summer or if your dog is susceptible to hot spots and dry skin). Buy the liquid version or the pill form if your pup can chew it easily. Read more about our recommended supplements for Labs on our nutrition page.

Vaccinations and Other Health Guidelines

Your puppy has received its first puppy "2 way" puppy vaccination (canine distemper-Parvovirus vaccine) and was wormed several times, mainly once every other week until 7 and 8 weeks old. At 7 or 8 weeks old your puppy had his 5 way shot. (Parvovirus ,Canine Distemper, Parainfluenza & Adenovirus type 2) I recommend a "5" way puppy shot at 12 weeks, and then at 16 weeks. Then rabies shot at 16 weeks can also be had.

It is important that your dog be protected against distemper and Parvo. I do not usually give any additional shots for any other diseases. Follow the recommendations of a trusted vet for vaccinations necessary for your area, such as for Lyme disease in areas with deer ticks. Too many shots are neither necessary nor good for the health of our pets.

I boost rabies shots every 3 years after the 1 year booster.

I boost 5 way shots every 3 years as well- after the 1 year booster

Worming

Your puppy was wormed previously (almost every other week) we have taken a stool sample to our vet to make sure your pup is free from worms. Take a fresh stool sample in to each vaccination appointment at 12 and 16 weeks and only give additional worm medication if necessary. Pups are extremely susceptible to worms and it isn’t a bad idea to have a stool sample checked monthly until they are about 6 months old especially if they are exposed to many other animals or places where other animals have been. Check with your vet for additional recommendations. (After the extensive worming we do here, I personally don’t worm my dogs unless I see them in their stool.)

Worms can cause hair loss around the eyes, a potbelly, chronic diarrhea and vomiting, increased hunger along with weight loss. Left unchecked, some worms can be lethal.

Heartworm Medication

I do not use Heart medicine. I don’t believe my vet and I have seen a case of it in our area of Southern California in 20 years. Follow your vet's recommendations for your area. But do not be roped into this as maintenance if you live in Southern California.

Microchipping / Tattooing

If your puppy is scheduled to be spayed or neutered, it is best to have the pup microchipped at the same time. If your puppy is to remain intact, I recommend finding a microchip clinic put on by a local dog club which is much less expensive and does not require the pup to be sedated as most vet offices require. I have used both Home Again and Avid microchips.

Tattooing is a less reliable way to permanently identify your pet. Tattoos on bellies can be hard to find under all that hair and tattooed ears can be removed.

Exercise and Play

A pup's bones are not fully hardened until the pup reaches 18 months old. It is very important to avoid repetitive activities such as long walks, and jumping until after that time. The very best exercise for a pup is free play with another dog on good footing. Never allow your pup to play roughly on a slippery surface. When you do not have access to another appropriate canine playmate, it is up to you to see that the pup receives appropriate exercise. Teaching the dog to retrieve a toy or ball is an excellent way for the pup to exercise. Start out slow with short distances and stop frequently to play hide and seek or practice tricks or obedience exercises. Use a long hall way and close off all the door so it is just the two of you. Roll the ball and encourage him to bring it back in exchange for a treat.

A schedule is the best thing for a young pup. Make one up that works with yours and try to stick to it. Remember, no running or jogging hard with you on the street until at least 18 months of age. Slow walks, short and tiny walks are best at first. Remember the pup is still growing and too much is not good. Your pup could suffer lameness due to your ignorance. So, be extra careful as to how much you let him do. Ask your vet for more advice.

Grooming

At least once a month, check the puppy’s nails and clip them, including the dew claws, if necessary. Clean out his ears with a cotton ball and gently brush the coat all over. I do puppies in my lap or standing nicely next to me. Brush teeth once a week, brush the coat once a say or once a week, and clean the ears once a week. Find a good groomer and take your pup in for a bath and nail clipping every month or so if you wish, just for the socialization and the nail clipping. Do not do any of this until your pup is over 4 months old and has received all of its vaccinations.

Training

BUY AND READ CULTURE CLASH by JEAN DONALDSON; TWICE!!

This is by far one of the best training books I have ever owned. It is the only one I have read more than once and still refer to it regularly. It will answer all of the most important general dog training questions anyone will have, from basic obedience, to barking, to jumping up, crate training and HOUSEBREAKING.

Find a good dog training center and sign up for basic obedience or puppy kindergarten. This is great practice for you in teaching your pup the basic obedience commands and is great socialization for the pup. Do not expect the pup to learn everything he needs to know by going to a few classes. The only way a pup will learn the obedience exercises are if you PRACTICE, PRACTICE, and PRACTICE. Many short sessions each day at home. Remember, your dog is always learning something, make it something positive!!

Choose a POSITIVE reward class, with a very patient teacher, and don't worry if your puppy seems hopeless. These are very sensitive and clever pups and they are learning much more than you think. A well trained puppy equals a well trained dog. Don’t let your pooch get away with anything now or you will be sorry later. Remember, there are no bad dogs. Just bad trainers/owners.

We do offer help in the training area so give us a call if you get stuck and we can possibly take your pup in and get him started and trained or recommend someone reliable.

Other Important Information

AS YOUR PUPPY GROWS, PLEASE REMEMBER TO CHECK COLLAR SIZE FREQUENTLY!!!

PLEASE REMEMBER, I AM HERE TO HELP YOU. CALL ME IF YOU ARE HAVING ANY PROBLEMS WITH YOUR NEW PUP!!

CALL ME IF THE PUP HAS ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS.

IF AT ANY TIME IT BECOMES NECESSARY FOR YOU TO REHOME YOU’RE PUP, PLEASE CALL ME FIRST!!

PLEASE KEEP ME UPDATED ON YOUR PUPS PROGRESS AND SEND ME LOTS OF PHOTOS AT LEAST ONCE A YEAR.